Watch the steam whistle blow at La Trochita station as the narrow-gauge train curls through Esquel’s pine-lined streets.
Esquel is a small Patagonian town in Argentina’s Chubut province, known as the southern terminus of the historic La Trochita steam train. With roughly 30,000 residents, it serves as the gateway to Los Alerces National Park, 37 miles / 60 km away. Visitors come for slow mornings by the Esquel Plaza and afternoons beside the Esquel River, soaking in calm before or after outdoor adventures. The town’s relaxed pace and proximity to alpine lakes and forests make it ideal for unwinding after long hikes or treks. Expect peaceful cafes and local markets where the day moves at a quiet, steady rhythm.
Ride the La Trochita steam train for a nostalgic journey, hike trails in Los Alerces National Park for serene alpine views, and relax at Esquel Plaza for local atmosphere.
Key takeaways
- La Trochita steam train runs daily tours for ~$25, 2026
- Los Alerces National Park is 37 miles / 60 km east of Esquel
- Esquel Plaza hosts a weekend artisan market every Saturday morning
- Best hiking season runs from December through March for mild weather
- Tap water is safe to drink in Esquel’s central neighborhoods
Why visit Esquel
Esquel stands apart from Patagonia’s usual buzz spots like Bariloche and El Chaltén by offering a quieter gateway to Los Alerces National Park. Its small-town calm centers around the historic steam train terminal for La Trochita, a rare living piece of railway history. The town’s slow rhythm invites you to savor lakeside afternoons and gentle forest walks rather than rush through crowded trails. This makes Esquel a rare Patagonian base where relaxation blends with accessible nature.
- Board La Trochita, the narrow-gauge steam train, for a nostalgic ride through Patagonian landscapes few tourists try.
- Explore Los Alerces National Park’s lakes and old-growth forests with easy day trips from town, avoiding long drives.
- Visit during fall (March-April) for fewer crowds and vivid colors, when other guides push high summer.
- Find lakeside cabins and family-run lodges that prioritize quiet comfort over flashy amenities.
Best for
You’ll appreciate Esquel if you want slow days by clear lakes and gentle forest walks after active treks nearby. Solo travelers and small groups craving calm, nature-focused stays without nightlife distractions fit best.
Skip if
Skip Esquel if you seek intense trekking or vibrant nightlife; El Chaltén offers more challenging hikes and social scenes.
Top things to do in Esquel
Esquel invites you to slow down by its serene lakes and soak in the Patagonian calm while tracing the historic steam train’s route. The Old Patagonian Express grounds the town’s identity, setting the tone for a laid-back visit with nature nearby.
1. Ride the Old Patagonian Express (La Trochita) ·
Hop on the narrow-gauge steam train that anchors Esquel’s heritage and offers a leisurely glimpse of Patagonian landscapes.
Board the Old Patagonian Express for a relaxed 3-hour round trip to the nearby countryside. The steam engine chugs along wooden trestles and through quiet forests, letting you unwind while absorbing the region’s history and scenery. Licensed operators run departures from the Esquel station, where locals gather to watch the train’s unique mechanics up close.
This ride beats any bus tour or car trip for slow travel vibes and authentic regional character, unlike the faster, less atmospheric road routes to Los Alerces National Park.
- When: Departures run mostly in the morning and early afternoon from October through April, best on weekdays to avoid crowds.
- Cost: ~$35, 2026
- Duration: 3 hours
- How to reach: Walk or take a short taxi ride to the historic train station on Avenida Alvear, just a 10-minute stroll from downtown Esquel.
Insider tip: If closed
Explore the small museums in town like the Regional Museum to catch local history and steam train artifacts.
Solo female travel: The station area stays lively during operating hours, and the train cars have open seating, making it easy to join others and enjoy the ride solo.
2. Relax by Lake Futalaufquen ·
Unwind on the peaceful shores of Lake Futalaufquen, a short drive from Esquel with gentle waters and mountain views.
Spend a slow afternoon at Lake Futalaufquen in Los Alerces National Park, where calm beaches invite you to read, picnic, or paddle in rented kayaks. The lake’s glassy surface reflects the Andes, setting a tranquil mood perfect for quiet reflection or casual strolls along the shore. Rental shops and small cafes nearby offer gear and refreshments.
This lakeside calm contrasts with the more strenuous hikes in the park, offering a pure relaxation option that fits perfectly with Esquel’s easy-going vibe.
- When: Visit between November and March, ideally in late afternoon for softer light and fewer people.
- Cost: ~$10 for kayak rental, 2026
- Duration: Half day
- How to reach: Take a rental car or shuttle along Route 259 about 50 miles / 80 km east of Esquel; the drive takes roughly 90 minutes.
Insider tip: If closed
Head to the small urban park near Esquel’s center for lakeside-like green space and calm.
Solo female travel: The lake area is popular but quiet; rental shops are staffed and locals are welcoming, making solo visits straightforward.
3. Stroll the Esquel Botanical Garden ·
Immerse yourself in native Patagonian flora on gentle paths inside the town’s botanical garden.
Walk the well-kept trails of Esquel’s Botanical Garden to explore local trees, shrubs, and wildflowers without leaving town. Benches and picnic spots let you rest in shade while birdsong accompanies your slow pace. The garden’s educational signs explain species unique to the region, adding a calm learning layer to your visit.
This urban green space offers a quiet, accessible nature fix without the need for a long drive or physical exertion, unlike trekking in nearby parks.
- When: Open daily year-round; visit mid-morning or late afternoon to avoid midday sun and enjoy cooler temperatures.
- Cost: Free
- Duration: 1-2 hours
- How to reach: Located just 1 mile / 1.6 km from downtown Esquel, walk or take a short taxi ride to Avenida Fontana.
Insider tip: If closed
Visit one of the local cafes with garden patios near the central plaza for a similar natural ambiance.
4. Sunset at Cerro La Cruz ·
Catch panoramic views of Esquel and the Andes from the easy hilltop hike at Cerro La Cruz during sunset.
Take the short, well-marked trail up Cerro La Cruz for a peaceful sunset experience overlooking Esquel and the distant mountains. The gentle climb rewards you with wide vistas that soften as the sun dips behind the peaks. Locals gather here for quiet reflection and photography, making it a relaxing end to the day.
This spot offers a serene alternative to more intense hikes nearby, perfect for slowing down and savoring the Patagonian light without strenuous effort.
- When: Arrive 1 hour before sunset, best from November through March for longer daylight hours.
- Cost: Free
- Duration: 1.5 hours round trip
- How to reach: Walk from downtown Esquel along Avenida Ameghino or take a taxi to the trailhead near the cemetery on the town’s east side.
Insider tip: If closed
Enjoy evening drinks at a café with outdoor seating near the plaza to watch the sunset colors from town.
Solo female travel: The trail is well-trodden and safe, with locals frequently passing through, making solo visits comfortable.
5. Visit the Esquel Artisan Market ·
Browse handcrafted wool goods and local art at Esquel’s artisan market for a calm cultural stroll.
Wander through the artisan market in Esquel’s center, where you’ll find handwoven textiles, carved wood items, and regional crafts that reflect Patagonian traditions. The market’s relaxed pace lets you chat with makers and sample local treats like pastries or herbal teas. It’s a quiet way to connect with the town’s creative side without the usual tourist rush.
This market offers a low-key cultural immersion that complements Esquel’s outdoor appeal, unlike crowded weekend fairs or urban shopping centers.
- When: Open weekends from 10:00 AM to 4:00 PM, best visited in the morning to avoid midday crowds.
- Cost: Free entry; items vary from ~$10 to $50, 2026
- Duration: 1-2 hours
- How to reach: Walk to the pedestrian streets near the central plaza, the market sits within a few blocks of most accommodations.
Insider tip: If closed
Explore the local cafés and bookstores around the plaza for a similarly relaxed cultural atmosphere.
Solo female travel: The market is frequented by families and locals, with a calm vibe that suits solo visitors.
Book tours and tickets
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24 hours in Esquel
This day plan fits travelers craving calm and slow moments after a long journey, with gentle exploration around Esquel’s lake and town. It suits anyone wanting to unwind while still touching Patagonia’s peaceful natural edges.
Morning
Start your morning with coffee at one of the cafes near the central plaza around 8:00 AM, where quiet streets and soft morning light set a relaxed tone. Walk slowly along the shores of Lake Futalaufquen, just a short drive from town, soaking in the still water and pine-scented air. Avoid the midday crowds by returning before 11:00 AM to the town’s artisan shops for a light browse, picking up local wool scarves or crafts.
Afternoon
Spend your afternoon at the steam train station, watching La Trochita prepare for its late departures and imagining old Patagonia’s pace. Have lunch at a family-run parrilla nearby, ordering Patagonian lamb with a glass of Malbec to complement the slow rhythm. Afterward, take a short drive to a quiet viewpoint on the outskirts, where the fading light softens the mountain silhouettes and invites calm reflection.
Evening
Catch the sunset from the peaceful banks of the Esquel River, where locals gather to unwind with mates and soft conversation. For dinner, choose a small tavern serving regional dishes focused on fresh trout or hearty stews, paired with local craft beer. The evening in town slows quickly, perfect for a gentle stroll back through tree-lined streets or settling in with a book at a quiet café near Plaza San Martín.
If you have a second day
Reserve your next day for a visit to Los Alerces National Park’s lakeshore trails or a half-day kayak on the crystal-clear waters. Both offer a deeper dive into the Patagonian wilderness without rushing.
Best time to visit Esquel
Quick answer
Visit Esquel from October to early December for mild weather and open trails, or April to June for calm lakes and fewer crowds.
| Months to go | April to June, October to early December |
|---|---|
| Months to avoid | July to September due to snow closing trails and colder temperatures limiting outdoor activities. |
Esquel’s outdoor season peaks in spring and fall when temperatures range from the mid-40s to mid-60s °F, ideal for lake time and gentle hikes. Winter months from July to September bring snow that closes many trails and limits access to Los Alerces National Park. Summer can get warmer but also wetter, with occasional rain disrupting long treks. The lakes stay calm and inviting in April to June, perfect for relaxed afternoons. October to early December opens the wildlife window and trail access before the summer rains start.
Average temperature (°F)
Monthly weather
warmest month, occasional rain
warm, still some rain
cooler, less rain, quieter
cool, calm lakes, fewer crowds
chilly, dry, good for slow days
cold, dry, trails still open
coldest, snow closes trails
snow lingers, limited hiking
cold, snow melts late
mild, trails open, wildlife active
pleasant, some rain, good hiking
warming, wetter, pre-summer rush
How to get to Esquel
Nearest airport
Esquel Airport (EQS), about 6 miles / 10 km from town center
From the airport
Take a taxi from Esquel Airport to town for around $10-$15, 2026. Booking at the airport taxi stand is easiest and safest, avoiding overpriced private transfers.
Other ways to arrive
- Bariloche, Argentina: bus, 6-7 hours, $40-$60, 2026
- Trelew, Argentina: bus, 8-9 hours, $50-$70, 2026
- San Carlos de Bariloche, Argentina: rental car, 6 hours, $80-$120 per day, 2026
Getting around Esquel
Walking covers most of Esquel’s compact center, ideal for slow mornings or evening strolls. For venturing farther, local taxis offer quick, affordable rides with straightforward pricing.
- Walk: Best for downtown and nearby neighborhoods, free and relaxing.
- Taxi: Use for trips to trailheads or Los Alerces National Park gateway, fares around $5-$10 per ride, 2026.
- Rental car: Only if planning multi-day trips outside town; roads near town are paved but some park access roads are gravel, $80-$120 per day, 2026.
Avoid
Avoid relying on buses for park access; schedules are infrequent and unreliable for early starts.
Day trips from Esquel
These day trips offer calm nature escapes and quiet lakeside spots that balance well with Esquel’s relaxed pace.
Los Alerces National Park
Lake views, gentle forest trails, and old alerce trees.
Why: The park’s serene lakeshore trails and calm waters create a perfect slow day away from town bustle.
La Trochita Steam Train Ride
Historic narrow-gauge steam train experience through Patagonian countryside.
Why: This ride offers a relaxed, nostalgic pace that fits the town’s slow rhythm better than any fast tour.
Skip if: Skip if you prefer active hiking over passive sightseeing.
Trevelin
Small Welsh-Argentine village with calm streets and local bakeries.
Why: Trevelin’s slow pace and quiet cafes complement Esquel’s relaxed vibe, making it a low-effort cultural break.
Skip if: Skip if your focus is strictly outdoor trekking.
Combine Esquel with
Esquel fits naturally into a Patagonia trip focused on relaxed nature and historic routes, perfect for unwinding between active days.
10-day Patagonia north-to-south Bariloche → Esquel → El Bolsón → Puerto Natales
This route follows a logical southbound flow through Patagonia’s quieter towns and parks, balancing scenic drives with restful stops.
7-day Patagonian steam train and lakes loop Esquel → Trevelin → Los Alerces National Park → Bariloche
This loop highlights Esquel’s steam train heritage and nearby lakes, mixing slow travel with gentle outdoor days.
Where to stay in Esquel
Esquel splits lodging mainly between the walkable downtown core and quieter residential areas near the train station or riverfront. Downtown suits those who want cafes, shops, and quick access to La Trochita steam train tours, while the neighborhoods along Avenida Ameghino offer calm streets and easy drives to Los Alerces National Park trailheads.
Budget — Central Esquel, near Avenida Alvear
Budget stays mostly mean hostel dorms or simple guesthouses offering basic comfort and social spaces. These spots deliver solid value but rarely have private baths or scenic views.
Insider tip: Pick hostels on the quieter side streets off Avenida Alvear to avoid nighttime street noise common on main roads.
Mid-range — Avenida Ameghino neighborhood
Mid-range options include family-run guesthouses and small boutique hotels with private bathrooms and occasional river views. They balance comfort, location, and local charm without overspending.
Insider tip: Request rooms facing away from the busy street to get peaceful mornings and easy parking for day trips.
Where not to stay
Avoid lodging along the commercial strip on Avenida Alvear near the bus station; it gets noisy late with truck traffic and local nightlife noise until 2 AM.
Solo female travelers
Stay in mid-range guesthouses near Avenida Ameghino—well-lit streets and friendly neighbors create a safe, relaxed atmosphere for solo female travelers.
Book your stay
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Where to eat and drink in Esquel
Esquel’s food scene reflects its Patagonian mountain setting with hearty dishes featuring local trout and lamb. The influence of Welsh settlers still shapes the baking traditions here, especially in pastries and breads. The small markets near the central plaza showcase fresh regional produce from the Andes foothills.
Must-try dishes
Trucha Patagónica (Patagonian trout)
Fresh trout typically grilled or pan-fried, served with herbs and local vegetables.
Insider tip: Go for trout dishes at lunch when the fish is freshest; avoid tourist traps near the train station that serve frozen imports.
Cordero Patagónico (Patagonian lamb)
Slow-roasted lamb with a crisp skin, seasoned with local herbs and often cooked over wood fire.
Insider tip: Order lamb for dinner and pair it with a simple side; skip menus overloaded with international dishes that water down the local flavor.
Torta galesa (Welsh cake)
A dense, buttery cake with dried fruits and spices, baked on a griddle or in a wood-fired oven.
Insider tip: Try it fresh in the morning with a strong coffee; avoid prepackaged versions sold in tourist shops.
Local drinks
- Patagonian craft beerTaprooms and bars in the downtown area that focus on regional microbrews.
Locally brewed lagers and ales using mountain water and Patagonian hops.
How to eat like a local in Esquel
Lunch is the main meal, typically between 12:30 and 2:00 PM, when most family-run kitchens serve fresh trout or lamb. Many close after lunch and reopen late for drinks, so plan your big meal midday, not in the evening.
Dietary note
Vegetarian options are limited outside the main town center; focus on bakeries and cafés for plant-based meals, and ask for grilled vegetables at parrillas.
Daily budget for Esquel
Esquel’s daily costs sit slightly above Argentina’s average due to its remote location and tourism linked to the historic steam train and Los Alerces National Park. Expect moderate prices for lodging and activities, with food and transport remaining affordable.
Shoestring
- lodging — dorm bed or basic guesthouse room on town outskirts
- food — simple meals at local bakeries or markets
- transport — shared minibus or walking within town
- activities — self-guided walks and free park entrances
- buffer — small emergency or snack fund
Trade-offs: You sacrifice comfort and convenience, staying in basic rooms and skipping guided tours or transport to farther trails.
Comfort
- lodging — private room in a family-run guesthouse near the center
- food — casual dining with some local specialties
- transport — occasional taxi or rental bike
- activities — guided day trips to Los Alerces or steam train rides
- buffer — souvenirs, coffee stops, or small extras
Trade-offs: You get decent comfort and access to key activities but avoid upscale dining or premium lodging.
Splurge
- lodging — boutique hotel or cabin with lake views
- food — high-end restaurants featuring Patagonian cuisine
- transport — private transfers or car rental
- activities — private guided tours and multi-day excursions
- buffer — spa treatments, premium gear rental, or extras
Trade-offs: You pay for privacy, luxury, and exclusive experiences but could spend less by choosing simpler options.
Money-saver tip
Book train rides on La Trochita directly at the station early morning to avoid agent markups and get last-minute discounts.
Splurge that’s worth it
A private guided day trip into Los Alerces National Park with a local expert delivers unmatched views and insider knowledge worth the premium.
Skip to save
Avoid overpriced souvenir shops near the train station; local markets in town offer better prices and authentic crafts.
Practical tips for Esquel
Money
| Cash or card | Carry cash for small purchases and rural areas; cards work well in town but expect occasional connectivity issues. |
|---|---|
| ATMs | ATMs are available in central Esquel and accept major foreign cards, but withdraw larger amounts to avoid repeated fees (~$200 per withdrawal). |
| Tipping | Tip 10% in restaurants when service is good; rounding up taxi fares by a dollar is appreciated but not mandatory. |
Safety
Esquel is straightforward for travelers who stay in well-known neighborhoods and avoid late-night walks in poorly lit areas.
Local warnings:
- Strong sun exposure requires sunscreen even on cloudy days.
- Mountain trails can be slippery after rain; bring proper boots.
- Roads outside town may be gravel and uneven, so drive cautiously.
Connectivity
| Mobile data | Mobile coverage is solid in town and along main roads; Claro SIM cards offer the best data packages for Patagonia. |
|---|---|
| Wi-Fi | Wi-Fi is reliable in most accommodations and cafes around the central plaza but slows in remote areas. |
Language
| Main language | Spanish |
|---|---|
| English level | English is limited outside tourist spots; basic Spanish phrases help smooth interactions. |
Cultural notes
| Dress modestly when visiting churches or religious sites in town. |
| Avoid discussing politics or local land disputes in casual conversation. |
| A firm handshake and eye contact are the standard greeting. |
Solo female travel
Solo female travelers find Esquel welcoming and manageable with usual urban caution, especially after dark.
| Neighborhood | Stay near the central plaza or the nearby residential area for safer evening walks. |
|---|---|
| Transport | Use registered taxis or app-based rides at night instead of hailing on the street. |
| Meeting people | Check the message board at the main hostel for group hikes or Sunday communal dinners to meet locals and travelers. |
Frequently asked questions about Esquel
1How many days do you need in Esquel?
Book 3 to 4 days. Spend one day exploring the Old Patagonian Express steam train, one day relaxing by nearby lakes, and a full day in Los Alerces National Park.
2Is Esquel safe for solo female travelers?
Yes, Esquel is safe for solo females, especially in the central neighborhoods around the plaza. Stick to well-lit streets after dark and use registered taxis for late-night rides.
3Can you swim in the lakes near Esquel?
Yes, lakes like Futalaufquen and Verde offer clear, cold water perfect for summer swims. Bring a wetsuit for longer dips, as water stays chilly even in summer.
4Do you need a car or 4×4 to visit Esquel and Los Alerces National Park?
No car is strictly necessary if staying near town. Local buses and shuttle services run regularly to Los Alerces and lake areas, but a rental car adds flexibility for lakeside relaxation.
5What is the food like in Esquel?
Expect hearty Patagonian fare with lamb, trout, and local berries. Small family-run restaurants near the plaza serve generous portions and house-brewed beers.
6Where is the best place to watch the sunset in Esquel?
Head to the hill overlooking the town near the steam train station. The late afternoon light hits the Andes and the steam engine’s tracks for a peaceful, slow moment.
7Is the Old Patagonian Express worth the visit in Esquel?
Yes, the steam train rides offer a relaxed way to soak in the Patagonian landscape. Choose a short route for a calm, scenic journey without the exhaustion of trekking.
8Can you drink tap water in Esquel?
Yes, tap water in Esquel is potable and regularly tested. Carry a reusable bottle to refill around town, especially during active days near the park.